Geology 103: Oceanography Quiz

Plunging breakers typically form where there is a steep bottom slope. The steep slope causes the wave to rapidly increase in height and curl over itself, resulting in a plunging breaker. In contrast, a gentle bottom slope would not cause the wave to steepen as much, leading to a different type of breaker.

A tsunami is a large, fast moving ocean wave generated by an earthquake or submarine landslide. Tsunamis can travel across the ocean at high speeds and can cause significant destruction when they reach coastal areas. They are different from other types of waves mentioned in the options. A sieche is a standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed body of water. Swell refers to long, rolling waves that are generated by distant storms. Tidal waves are caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun. Therefore, the correct answer is tsunami.

Sodium (Na) and Chlorine (Cl) are the most abundant elements dissolved in seawater. This is because sodium and chlorine ions are present in high concentrations in seawater due to the dissolution of sodium chloride (common salt). Sodium ions (Na+) and chloride ions (Cl-) are essential for various biological processes and are important for maintaining the balance of fluids in organisms. Additionally, sodium and chloride ions play a crucial role in the electrical conductivity of seawater.

Wind is caused by differences in air pressure. Air moves from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure, creating wind. These pressure differences can be caused by a variety of factors, such as temperature variations, the rotation of the Earth, and the presence of weather systems. The unequal heating of the Earth's surface by the sun is a major contributor to differences in air pressure, leading to the formation of wind.

Swell refers to waves that are generated by winds but have moved out of the storm area and become regularly spaced as they cross the ocean. This means that the waves are no longer in the area of generation and have traveled a distance from where they were initially formed. As they move across the ocean, they become more organized and evenly spaced. This distinguishes swell from waves that are still in the area of generation, waves generated by earthquakes, or waves that have broken on the beach and are characterized by white water foam.

The density of water is determined by its temperature, salinity, and pressure. Temperature affects the density of water because as it increases, the water molecules move faster and spread out, leading to a decrease in density. Salinity, or the amount of dissolved salts in water, also affects density. When the salinity is higher, the water becomes denser. Pressure is another factor that affects water density. As pressure increases with depth, the water molecules become more closely packed together, increasing the density. Therefore, temperature, salinity, and pressure are all important factors in determining the density of water.

The well-lighted portion of the ocean is termed the "photic" zone because it is the region where sunlight penetrates and provides enough light for photosynthesis to occur. This zone is typically found near the surface of the ocean and supports a wide variety of marine life that rely on sunlight for energy. The other options, such as "aphotic" and "dysphotic," refer to areas of the ocean where light is limited or absent, while "abyssal" and "benthic" refer to different regions or habitats within the ocean.

During an El Nino, sea surface temperatures in the eastern equatorial Pacific are elevated. El Nino is a climate pattern that occurs irregularly and is characterized by warmer than usual ocean temperatures in the central and eastern parts of the Pacific Ocean. This warming of the sea surface disrupts the normal atmospheric circulation patterns and can have significant impacts on weather patterns around the world. The elevated sea surface temperatures during El Nino can lead to changes in precipitation patterns, including increased rainfall in some areas and drought in others.

The SOFAR channel is a region in the ocean where sound waves can travel long distances with minimal loss of energy. This is due to the unique combination of increasing pressure and decreasing temperature with depth in this region. The sound waves are refracted and trapped within the SOFAR channel, allowing them to travel great distances without dispersing. This phenomenon is of great interest in underwater acoustics and is used for various applications such as sonar systems and communication with submarines.

Deep ocean currents are mainly driven by density differences. Density differences occur due to variations in temperature and salinity of the water. Cold and salty water is denser and sinks, while warm and less salty water is less dense and rises. This movement of water creates currents in the deep ocean. Wind, electromagnetic fields, solar storms, and wind drag can influence surface currents, but they have minimal impact on deep ocean currents.

The Autonomous Underwater Vehicle (AUV) described by Dr. Kipp Shearman was capable of being deployed in the open ocean for extended periods of up to three weeks. It was also able to glide through the water column by adjusting its overall density. Additionally, the AUV was equipped to measure various parameters such as dissolved oxygen, temperature, and salinity. Therefore, the correct answer is "All of the above."

A thermocline is a depth interval in the ocean where the temperature changes rapidly. This is due to a sharp decrease in temperature with increasing depth. The thermocline acts as a barrier, separating the warm surface waters from the cold deep waters. It plays an important role in ocean circulation and the distribution of marine organisms, as it affects the density and mixing of water masses.

The time that it takes two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point is termed the wave period. This refers to the time it takes for a complete wave cycle to occur, including both the crest and trough. It is a measure of the time it takes for the wave to repeat its pattern.

Surface ocean currents are primarily driven by the wind. The wind exerts a force on the surface of the ocean, causing the water to move in the direction of the wind. This movement of water creates currents. While other factors such as Earth's rotation, magnetic fields, and salinity differences can influence ocean currents to some extent, it is the wind that plays the most significant role in driving these currents.

North Atlantic Deep Water originates near Greenland and Iceland. This is because the cold, dense water formed in these regions sinks to the deep ocean and flows southward, creating the North Atlantic Deep Water. The cold water is a result of the cooling and sinking of surface waters in the Greenland-Iceland region, which then mixes with deeper waters and forms a deep water mass. This process is an essential part of the global ocean circulation system and plays a crucial role in transporting heat and nutrients around the world's oceans.

The average salinity of seawater is measured in parts per thousand (o/oo), and the correct answer is 35. This means that for every thousand parts of seawater, 35 parts are made up of dissolved salts. Salinity is an important factor in determining the density and composition of seawater, as well as its ability to conduct electricity.

Spring tides occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned, resulting in the highest tidal range. During spring tides, the gravitational pull of the sun and moon combine, causing the highest high tides and the lowest low tides. This alignment happens during the new moon and full moon phases. Neap tides, on the other hand, occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, resulting in the smallest tidal range. Mixed tides refer to a combination of spring and neap tides, but they do not necessarily have the highest high tides. Spring break is unrelated to tidal patterns.

Seawater with a salinity of 35 o/oo freezes at -1.9 degrees Celsius. This is because the presence of salt in seawater lowers its freezing point compared to freshwater. The salt molecules disrupt the formation of ice crystals, requiring lower temperatures for freezing to occur. Therefore, seawater with a salinity of 35 o/oo freezes at a lower temperature of -1.9 degrees Celsius.

The Gulf Stream is a narrow, deep, and swift current that flows on the western side of the North Atlantic Ocean. It is a warm ocean current that originates in the Gulf of Mexico and travels up the eastern coast of the United States before crossing the Atlantic Ocean towards Europe. The Gulf Stream is an important oceanic feature that influences the climate of the eastern coast of North America and western Europe, bringing warm water and affecting weather patterns.

Evaporation is the process in which water molecules change to a gas at temperatures below the boiling point. This occurs when heat energy is applied to the water, causing the water molecules to gain enough energy to escape from the liquid and become a gas. Evaporation commonly takes place on the surface of bodies of water, such as lakes and oceans, as well as from moist surfaces like plants and soil. It is an important part of the water cycle, as it helps to replenish the atmosphere with water vapor, which eventually leads to the formation of clouds and precipitation.

Over the ocean, evaporation exceeds precipitation. This means that more water is evaporating from the ocean surface than is being replenished by precipitation. Evaporation is the process by which water changes from a liquid to a gas, while precipitation is the process by which water vapor condenses and falls back to the Earth's surface as rain, snow, sleet, or hail. In areas where evaporation exceeds precipitation, there is a net loss of water from the ocean, leading to a decrease in overall water levels.

The Coriolis deflection is caused by the apparent motion of objects in the reference frame of the rotating Earth. As the Earth rotates, objects moving across its surface appear to be deflected to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. This deflection is due to the rotation of the Earth and is responsible for the rotation of large-scale weather systems, such as cyclones and anticyclones. It also affects the path of moving objects, such as projectiles and ocean currents, leading to the formation of trade winds and oceanic gyres.

The term "circulation gyres" refers to the large, circular surface currents in the oceans. These gyres are caused by a combination of factors such as wind patterns, the Earth's rotation, and the shape of the ocean basins. These currents play a crucial role in distributing heat, nutrients, and marine life throughout the oceans.

When a wave crest is observed to move at 25 meters per second across the ocean, it is actually the wave energy that is moving at this speed. Wave energy refers to the energy carried by the wave as it travels through the water. The movement of the wave crest indicates the transfer of this energy from one point to another. Therefore, the correct answer is wave energy.

Salinity refers to the total dissolved materials in seawater. It is a measure of the salt concentration in the water, including various minerals and ions. Salinity is an important factor in determining the physical and chemical properties of seawater, such as its density and freezing point. It plays a crucial role in the ocean's ecosystem and influences the distribution of marine organisms. Therefore, salinity is the correct term to describe the total dissolved materials in seawater.

A sharp increase in density with depth is called a pycnocline. This refers to a layer in a body of water where the density rapidly changes with depth. The pycnocline is typically characterized by a sharp increase in density due to factors such as temperature or salinity variations. This density gradient can have important implications for the distribution of organisms and the movement of water within the body of water.

Due to the Coriolis effect, in the Northern Hemisphere, moving objects appear to be deflected to the right. This phenomenon is caused by the rotation of the Earth, which causes a deflection in the path of moving objects. As the Earth spins on its axis, objects moving northward (or in any direction) will appear to be deflected to the right. This deflection is observed in various phenomena, such as the movement of winds, ocean currents, and the trajectory of projectiles.

The term "residence time" refers to the average length of time that an ion remains in solution in the ocean. It is a measure of how long an ion typically stays in the ocean before being removed or exchanged with other substances. This concept is important in understanding the cycling and distribution of ions in the ocean.

Fetch refers to the distance over which the wind blows uninterrupted across a body of water, creating waves. It is the length of water over which the wind has blown in a constant direction, allowing the waves to build up. The longer the fetch, the larger and more powerful the waves can become. Therefore, fetch is the correct term to describe the distance over which the wind blows to create waves.

The centrifugal force is the correct answer because when the earth rotates, objects on its surface tend to move away from the axis of rotation. This creates a bulge on the opposite side of the earth from the tidal bulge formed by the moon's gravitational pull. The centrifugal force balances out the gravitational force, causing the water to bulge on both sides of the earth.

The correct answer is 1700 AD. This is supported by good evidence that the last major Cascadia earthquake, which caused a significant tsunami, occurred in 1700 AD. This evidence could include geological studies, historical records, or other scientific research that points to this specific time period as the occurrence of the earthquake and tsunami.

Dispersion is the process in which different wavelengths of light travel at different speeds when passing through a medium. This occurs because the refractive index of the medium varies with wavelength. As a result, light waves of different colors separate and spread out, creating a spectrum. This phenomenon is commonly observed when white light passes through a prism, where it is dispersed into its constituent colors. Therefore, dispersion is the correct answer as it accurately describes the process of different wavelengths traveling at different speeds.

Ekman transport refers to the net flow of water in the upper ocean layer caused by the combined effect of wind and the Coriolis effect. In the Northern Hemisphere, due to the Coriolis effect, the net flow of water is to the right of the wind direction. This phenomenon is known as Ekman transport. It is an important process in ocean circulation and affects the movement of water masses, nutrients, and heat in the ocean.

The correct answer is "Polar structure". The high boiling and melting temperature of water can be attributed to the polar structure of the water molecule. Water molecules have a bent shape, with oxygen being more electronegative than hydrogen. This causes the oxygen atom to have a partial negative charge and the hydrogen atoms to have a partial positive charge. The polarity of the water molecule allows for strong hydrogen bonding between water molecules, which requires more energy to break and results in higher boiling and melting points.

Wave steepness refers to the ratio of wave height to wavelength. When the wave steepness exceeds a certain threshold, waves become unstable and break. Therefore, by measuring the wave steepness, we can predict when and where waves will become unstable and break.