Gly Test 3 Practice Ch 20

1. Which one of the following statements concerning sea level is correct?

It has dropped since 900 A.D., but will probably rise for the next few hundred years.

It dropped during the past few centuries and that trend will continue.

It rose over past centuries but will probably drop in the next hundred years.

It rose for the past few centuries and will continue to rise.

2. How does refraction affect the crest and trough orientations of incoming waves along a beach?

As the waves move into shallower water, the angle between the wave crests (troughs) and theshoreline increases.

As the waves move into shallower water, the angle between the wave crests (troughs) and theshoreline decreases.

3. A natural sand bar or low sand ridge that connects one island to another island or to the mainland is called a ________.

Sand groin

Spit

Jetty barrier

Tombolo

4. Increasing quantities of ________ will eventually produce global warming.

Carbon dioxide

Ozone

Water vapor

Volcanic aerosols

5. ________ low initial costs and modest maintenance costs; high potential for storm damages and low to moderate potential for negative environmental effects

Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but themost powerful storm waves

Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreatfrom the coastline

Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment

6. ________ refers to the movements of sand and water on a beach due to a breaking wave.

Swash and slosh

Backwash and swash

Slash and slosh

Wash and backslosh

7. ________ high initial costs and eventually high maintenance costs; high potential for storm damage and negative environmental consequences

Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but themost powerful storm waves

Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreatfrom the coastline

Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment

8. Erosional retreat of a ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction.

Wave-cut cliff

Wave-cut barrier beach

Wave-cut tombolo

Offshore, wave-cut, breakwater bar

9. Which one of the following is an artificial coastal feature?

Breakwater

Sand spit

Sea arch

Barrier island

10. A ________ extends partway across the mouth of a bay or estuary.

Barrier island

Spit

Jetty

Sand arch

11. Over the past few thousand years, how, if at all, has sea level been changing?

It has fallen about 10 inches per century.

It has risen about 10 centimeters per century.

It has remained about the same.

None of the above

12. ________ is not a dynamic characteristic of a wave of oscillation.

Fetch

Velocity or speed

Wavelength

Period

13. A ________ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform.

Sea stack

Sea span

Sea rampart

Sea spit

14. Incoming waves slow down and rotate towards an orientation of being parallel to the shoreline. This process is known as ________.

Reflection

Relaxing

Refluxing

Refraction

15. A baymouth bar is ________.

A sand deposit on the seaward side of a tidal inlet to a large estuary

A sand bar extending across the former inlet to a bay or estuary

A sand barrier extending partway across the entrance to a bay or estuary

A sand deposit on the estuary side of an inlet through a barrier island

16. Fetch refers to ________.

A large expanse of open water over which the wind blows and generates waves

Ocean currents moving parallel to the beach

The rotational movements of water particles beneath a passing, surface wave

The beachfront area where rapid erosion is taking place

17. Emergent coastlines of Scandinavia (Norway and Sweden) and the Hudson Bay region of Canada result from which one of the following combinations?

The rate of glacial rebound exceeds the rate of sea level rise

The tectonic subsidence rate exceeds the rate of sea level rise

The rate of glacial rebound is less than the rate of sea level rise

The rate of tectonic uplift exceeds the rate of sea level fall

18. ________ are currents that move sand and water parallel to the beach.

Reflected

Longshore

Translational

Ebb tide

19. Which one of the following would prove that a coastline was emergent?

Elevated, wave-cut terraces

Many small bedrock islands

Extensive barrier islands

Numerous large estuaries

20. ________ low initial costs and low maintenance costs; low potential for storm damages and for negative environmental consequences

Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but themost powerful storm waves

Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreatfrom the coastline

Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment

21. A ________ tide is a tidal current flowing through an inlet into a bay or estuary.

Forward

Spring

Flood

Ebb

22. How can crashing, collapsing, storm waves generate explosive forces and stresses on rocky outcrops and manmade structures?

Pressurized water and compressed air are driven into cracks and fissures

Backwash breaks out blocks of rock or concrete and carries them out to deeper water

Oscillating, refractive waves shake the hard materials into small fragments

All of the above

23. When does a deep-water wave change to a shallow water wave?

Only when the wave period is greater than one-half the water depth

Only when the wavelength is about twice the water depth

Only when the wavelength is about one-half the water depth

Only when the wave period is greater than twice the water depth

24. Which one of the following would not be a likely effect of a breakwater?

Increased, longshore current velocities between the breakwater and the beach

Dissipation of storm wave energy on the seaward side of the breakwater

Increased sand deposition between the beach and the breakwater

Increased erosion of the beach on one side of the breakwater

25. Which of the following is true regarding the gravitational forces affecting Earth?

The lunar force is about twice that of the Sun.

The solar and lunar gravitational forces are about the same magnitude.

The solar force is about twice that of the Moon.

The gravitational forces of each vary depending upon seasons on Earth.

26. A ________ migrates inland as a wave-cut platform is extended.

Wave-cut barrier dune

Wave-cut barrier stack

Wave-cut arch

Wave-cut cliff

27. ________ are coastal structures designed to keep tidal inlets from shifting location or filling with sand.

Breakwaters

Seawalls

Jetties

Groins

28. A ________ tide is an incoming or rising tide.

Drift

Flood

Ebb

Rip

29. Which of the following statements concerning the Mississippi delta lands is not true?

Coastal erosion and loss of delta lands will continue as sea level continues to rise.

Artificial levees help spread river-borne sediment uniformly over the delta swamps andwetlands.

The sediment supply has dropped since large reservoirs were constructed on the Missouri andArkansas Rivers.

The thick sediment pile is slowly compacting and the delta is slowly subsiding.

30. Large estuaries are more common on a ________ coastline.

Submergent

Retreating

Stable

Emergent

31. Swash and backwash describe ________.

Movements of water and sand as waves break along a beach

The oscillatory movement of water beneath a passing wave

The swirling action and sand movements produced when a shallow water wave impinges on thebottom

The forward and backward water movements as storm waves reflect from a seawall or groin

32. A deep-water wave exists when ________.

The wavelength exceeds one-half the water depth

The wavelength exceeds one-half the wave height

The water depth exceeds one-half the wavelength

The wave height exceeds the water depth

33. ________ are built more or less parallel to the beach.

Jetties

Seawalls

Groins

Breakers

34. ________ not the direct result of longshore current action.

Building and extension of spits are

Closing off of small estuaries by baymouth bars is

Transport of sand along the beach is

Cracking and abrasion of rock at the base of a wave-cut cliff are

35. Which one of the following coastlines would typically have wave-cut cliffs, sea stacks, sea arches, and wave-cut platforms?

One where bedrock is vigorously eroded as sea level rises

One where a bedrock, wave-cut cliff is rapidly retreating inland as sea level falls

One where unconsolidated sediments are being eroded as sea level falls

One where unconsolidated sediments are being rapidly eroded as sea level rises

36. Which one of the following is not directly related to wave refraction?

Speeds decrease as waves enter shallow water.

Ebb tidal currents carry large quantities of sand from estuaries to the seacoast side of a barrierisland system.

Deposition is concentrated in bays and protected waters.

Erosional energy is focused on headland areas along the beach.

37. Water movement and sand transport parallel to the beach are fundamentally caused by

Strong, offshore winds creating a pileup of water along the beach front

Deep-water waves breaking offshore

Waves impinging obliquely onto a beach

A long fetch parallel to the beach

38. ________ refers to the broad dome of water moving with the eye and frontal portion of a hurricane.

Cyclonic mound

Storm surge

Eyewall ridge

Sea dome

39. How are spits, hooks, and baymouth bars formed?

A headland is eroded and the sand is deposited in an offshore basin.

Wave erosion cuts away both sides of a long sand bar, leaving a sand ridge aligned parallel tothe shore.

Sand is deposited from longshore currents.

Sand eroded from a wave-cut diff is deposited around sea stacks and arches.

40. ________ are the maximum-amplitude tides produced when the Sun, Earth, and Moon are aligned.

Rip tides

Spring tides

Surf tides

Neap tides