Certified Installing Dealer Test

90% of the time no it cannot be removed whilst the boat is in the water. OceanLED provides accessories for the Thru-Hull which allows the units to be removed whilst the boat is in the water for repair and / or replacement:
http://oceanled.com/Product_Pages/Pro_Series_Accessories.php

The reason OceanLED lights have not been designed to be remvoed from inside the boat, is that when OceanLED started in 2006, a lot of research went into the complaints of current lights on the market. A major problem found was that when the lights were serviced from inside the boat, humid moist air was trapped inside the fixture when it was put back together. This air and water trapped inside the light, quickly corroded the light from the inside out. This meant that after 1 or 2 services, the entire unit had to tbe replaced anyway and this required the boat to be out of the water.
OceanLED lights are factory sealed and must be destroyed to re-enter them. This means no seals to leak and also no service will allow damp air back inside the unit.

Overtightening screws will lead to damage to the unit and VOID the warranty. HAND TIGHT ONLY!

The light cannot bend to the curved portion of the hull. You can feasibly make up a mounting bracket for the light to sit onto to take up the curve but this will take a long time. Quickest way will be to move the light to a flat section of the hull.
Please refer to the installation videos on OceanLED website for more information:
http://oceanled.com/OceanLED_TV.php

LED - Light Emitting Diode

OceanLED lights contain boost convertors, taking lower power and boosting it to supply constant voltage to LED's. Therefore pushing more amperage for lower voltage keep the lights at the same intensity.

When conencting cable, make sure you use all precautions necessary to prevent water intrusion in the cable. Cable fractures, leaking butt splices will lead to water entering light unit and shorting out fixture. This will also invalidate the warranty.

The light turning 1/2 off is a typical symptom of over heating. The thermosat inherrent in the entire OceanLED range, will shut the lights down as a safety feature once they reach their maximum programmed operatingh temperature. For a 3010 light, this overheating symptom will show by exactly 1/2 of the light turning off. The other half will then shut down if the heating continues. Other possible causes could be corrosion on the wiring, fluctuating voltage and /or faulty driver. Please consult your troubleshooting instructions for further information.

You can very rarely use too much sealant. Ideally you should see the sealant squeeze out from behind the fixture. Once you have tightened the unit in place, use a rag covered finger and evenly spread the excess around the perimeter of thelight body, adding an additional seal.
If you do not see sealant being spread out you have either not used enough sealant, or tightened the unit down enough. Carefully check which this is and either remove and re-apply sealant, or gently tighten unit to hull.

On the 1520, 2010 and 3010 all use the Deutsch 12 pin connectors. The 4010 uses a Souriau Clipper plug.

OceanLED is the only underwater lighting company to have all of these certifications on their lights. No other lighting companies have gone to the expesne to have these certifications applied to their products.

Whilst the 4010 will work on 12vDC, the current draw of 15amps exceeds the maximum safe current range of the driver unit.

Once the IP68 Deutsch connectors on the Pro-Series lights have been connected, any water trapped in that plug will remain. This water will erode away the gold plated pins and will cause a problem for the light. Symptoms of water trapped in plug will cause light to shut down in sections, light to shut off completely and may cause flickering.

It is essential that the core does not have the opportuntiy to leak water into the transom. When thru hull fixtures have the locking hardware tightened, it crushes the soft core and loosens the locking bolts. OCeanLED recommends removing 3-4 inches of the core material using a dremel tool (without damaging the outer hlayers) and replacing with a hard epoxy. Acceptable alternative methods include removing core completely so the locking bolts fasten to the outside layer of fibreglass only. In this case you must make sure you fill the exposed core with epoxy.

HAND TIGHT ONLY!!! You should never use a pneumatic or torque gun to install the Amphibian lights. Over tightening of the screws will lead to damaged light units and will immediately VOID the warranty.

When installing the Amphibian lights, it is a common mis-conception to use minimal amounts of sealant. Please ensure to cover the perimeter of the light, the screw holes and the cable entry. It is NEVER a good idea to allow water to get behind any thru-hull fixture, regardless if it is a fully sealed unit or not. You wouldnt use minimal amounts of sealant when installing a transducer so don't do the same with these lights.
A common answer to this is that using lots of sealant will make the unit difficult to remove. The common answer to this is that if you use lots of sealant, you won't need to remove the unit.

All Thru-Hull ights are made out of marine grade bronze. In Europe this material is called Aluminum bronze / AB2. The chemical analysis of the material is as follows:
80% Bronze
10% Aluminum
5% Nickel
5% Various (magnesium , copper etc)
The aluminum content is very good for thermal transfer o fheat generated by the LED's. The high bronze content is exceptionally high on the galvanic scale and therefore very good for constant submersion in a salt environment.
Flush-Mount Pro Series lights are a combination of aluminum bronze and hard anodized aluminum for the body which is chemically inert if not tampered with.

All OceanLED Pro-Series drivers contain boost convertors. This means that they will continue to pump out 30volts to the lights regardless of whether the voltage is low or high. If the voltage drops the current draw will increase to compensate. You can use the following standard equation:
Formula W=VA (Wattage=Voltage X Amperage)

Example: The battery system on board a 32' Intrepid is fully charged at 13.9vDC. What is the current draw on the installed 3010 light?

Wattage of 3010 = 96watts
Voltage of System = 13.9

Formula= wattage / voltage = amperage
96 / 13.9 = 6.9amps

For more information on OceanLED electrical specs, please visit, www.oceanled.com

There are (4) channels (relays) and 10amps per channel (relay) max load. However the total unit limit is 30amps, not the expected 40amps that would come with 4 channels.
Please make sure to design your electrical system around these parameters.

"Fixture Lumens" rating is a measurement of total light output from a finished lighting fixture. This measurement can only be obtained from either a Goniophometer or an Integrating sphere. Fixture Lumens is the most reliable and professional measurement of light output.OceanLED has heavily invested in these measurement apparatus and has had all its data verified by the Lighting Association of Great Britain. LED's cannot be rated in Lumens since LED's are not bulbs.

L70 is the LED standard generated for understanding the lifetime of LED's. Philips categorized this as:
"The time to 70% lumen maintenance - denoted by L70.

In general terms, L70 is a standard term which is at a time when the LED unit will be at 70% of its peak maximum output rsulting is a 30% loss in light output.

Therefore the L70 on all underwater lights is 40,000hrs. After this time the units be will 30% down on light output or 70% of its lumen maintenance.

Isolating sleeves are available from OceanLED for all sizes of Pro-Series light fixtures. Please see the accessory page online at http://oceanled.com/Product_Pages/Pro_Series_Accessories.php

Do not seal light using sealant to hull directly onto bottom paint. To ensure good adhesion and prevent water intrusion and seepage into the core material and into boat, make sure to sand back to the material ie fibreglass / gel coat

Please refer to your 'which series is right for you chart' if you have any questions.

The Ocean camera is designed to be run on a 12vDC system only. Please be aware that whnen the 12vDC is charging this voltage can sometimes exceed 16vDC. All OceanLED EYES cameras come equipped with a 12vDC regulator which will protect the unit against surges.
Cameras damaged to over voltage will NOT be covered under warranty.

All OceanLED fixtures are water tested after production to the IP68 standard requirements of submersion at 1m/3' depth for 1 hour before being sent out from the UK factory.

When troubleshooting problems with the fixtures, please refer the the troubleshooting guides available from ww.oceanled.com. Problems and symptoms may vary but all have a common cause. 90% of the problems are due to power or driver issues, however never assume.

Fuse discrimination is designed to protect the wiring only.

Please refer to the which series is right for you chart in your dealer handbook if you need further options / help.

OceanLED recommends no more than a 5% voltage drop across cable lossses. For exact cable gauge requirements, please visit www.oceanled.com/light_load.php where you will find a cable gauge calculator to help you plan your electrical installation.

The correct answer is M8. This suggests that the size of hex / alan wrench tool that comes with the Flush-Mount Pro-Series range is M8.

These nm measurements are very important. For the blue colors to match underwater and baove water some well educated buyers would like to know this measuremeant. A difference of our lights at 465nm and interior cockpit loights at 425nm for example will be very noticeable.
All Pro Series lights have the same nm number.