Sanding Secrets For Bowl Turners

1. Sanding is

Definitely not fun

Usually a necessary step

Always required for bowls

A & B

Occasionally when a woodturner makes a bowl from green wood, there’s no sanding necessary. Also, when turning spindles that are to be painted, sanding is not always necessary.

Explanation

Occasionally when a woodturner makes a bowl from green wood, there’s no sanding necessary. Also, when turning spindles that are to be painted, sanding is not always necessary.

2. What are the two main categories of sanding?

Distressed sanding and powder sanding

Power sanding and hand sanding

Forever sanding and quick sanding

Dry-wood sanding and wet-wood sanding

Woodturners employ both power sanding and hand sanding, depending on the size of their bowl. A hand drill or sanding device is necessary for power sanding.

Explanation

Woodturners employ both power sanding and hand sanding, depending on the size of their bowl. A hand drill or sanding device is necessary for power sanding.

3. When selecting abrasive paper consider the following

Not all abrasive paper is created equal

Higher-priced abrasives work quicker and more efficiently than cheap ones

A range of abrasive grits from coarse to fine should be used

All of the above

I’ve found that spending the extra money on good quality abrasives is well worth the money. It’s important to begin with a the least coarse grit possible, then proceed through each grit, not skipping grits, such as 80-grit, 150-grit, 220-grit, 320-grit.

Explanation

I’ve found that spending the extra money on good quality abrasives is well worth the money. It’s important to begin with a the least coarse grit possible, then proceed through each grit, not skipping grits, such as 80-grit, 150-grit, 220-grit, 320-grit.

4. Hand sanding is necessary when

Your bowl is so small that power sanding cannot be accomplished

The power is out

You cannot get your spouse to do it for you

You have cut grooves in your bowl

Power sanding is generally for larger-diameter bowls.

Explanation

Power sanding is generally for larger-diameter bowls.

5. The best kind of fold to use for abrasive paper is

To fold the paper in quarters

To fold the paper in half

To fold the paper in thirds

Don’t fold paper-backed abrasives

By folding the abrasive in thirds, none of the grits rub against each other, and the paper doesn’t slip.

Explanation

By folding the abrasive in thirds, none of the grits rub against each other, and the paper doesn’t slip.

6. The lathe speed for sanding a bowl should be

Always at 3,000 RPM—that makes the sanding go quicker

Slower than for turning the bowl, somewhere around 800 RPM or slower

Not a consideration

The lathe should be stopped for all hand sanding

If you sand at too fast of a speed, you will hydroplane, hitting only the high spots, leaving areas untouched by the abrasive.

Explanation

If you sand at too fast of a speed, you will hydroplane, hitting only the high spots, leaving areas untouched by the abrasive.

7. Sanding scratches can be minimized by

Carefully going through progressively finer grits, ending up with a very fine grit

Cranking up the speed of your lathe so the abrasive particles are thrown out of the wood fibers

Occasionally, slightly moistening the wood to raise the grain, loosening embedded grits

A & C

Again, don’t increase speeds when sanding.

Explanation

Again, don’t increase speeds when sanding.

8. With most bowls and platters, power sanding can usually begin with what grit abrasive?

120-grit

60-grit

220-grit

None of the above

With power sanding, a finer grit is plenty aggressive, such a 120-grit.

Explanation

With power sanding, a finer grit is plenty aggressive, such a 120-grit.

9. Having a small nub appear in the center of your bowl or platter during the sanding process

Is caused from excessive sanding

Can be avoided by initially making that area slightly concave to begin with

Can be removed by hand sanding

All of the above

The small nub appearing in the center of the bowl or platter during the sanding process is caused from excessive sanding. When sanding a wooden bowl or platter, if too much pressure or sanding is applied to a specific area, it can result in a small nub forming in the center. This can be avoided by initially making that area slightly concave to begin with, which helps distribute the sanding pressure more evenly. However, if the nub does appear, it can be removed by hand sanding. Therefore, the correct answer is that the nub is caused from excessive sanding.

Explanation

The small nub appearing in the center of the bowl or platter during the sanding process is caused from excessive sanding. When sanding a wooden bowl or platter, if too much pressure or sanding is applied to a specific area, it can result in a small nub forming in the center. This can be avoided by initially making that area slightly concave to begin with, which helps distribute the sanding pressure more evenly. However, if the nub does appear, it can be removed by hand sanding. Therefore, the correct answer is that the nub is caused from excessive sanding.

10. Sanding a bowl can be potentially dangerous if

You remove the toolrest before sanding

Wear dust protection mask or air-stream helmet

Wet the wood slightly while sanding to keep sawdust from flying around

None of the above

Always remove the toolrest—hands and fingers can easily get caught. Wood dust in your lungs is cumulative. It doesn’t hurt to wet the wood of your bowl, but only moisten it.

Explanation

Always remove the toolrest—hands and fingers can easily get caught. Wood dust in your lungs is cumulative. It doesn’t hurt to wet the wood of your bowl, but only moisten it.