A large expanse of open water over which the wind blows and generates waves
Ocean currents moving parallel to the beach
The rotational movements of water particles beneath a passing, surface wave
The beachfront area where rapid erosion is taking place
The wavelength exceeds one-half the water depth
The wavelength exceeds one-half the wave height
The water depth exceeds one-half the wavelength
The wave height exceeds the water depth
Strong, offshore winds creating a pileup of water along the beach front
Deep-water waves breaking offshore
Waves impinging obliquely onto a beach
A long fetch parallel to the beach
Movements of water and sand as waves break along a beach
The oscillatory movement of water beneath a passing wave
The swirling action and sand movements produced when a shallow water wave impinges on the bottom
The forward and backward water movements as storm waves reflect from a seawall or groin
As the waves move into shallower water, the angle between the wave crests (troughs) and the shoreline increases.
As the waves move into shallower water, the angle between the wave crests (troughs) and the shoreline decreases.
Jetties
Seawalls
Groins
Breakers
It has fallen about 10 inches per century.
It has risen about 10 centimeters per century.
It has remained about the same.
None of the above
Pressurized water and compressed air are driven into cracks and fissures
Backwash breaks out blocks of rock or concrete and carries them out to deeper water
Oscillating, refractive waves shake the hard materials into small fragments
All of the above
Carbon dioxide
Ozone
Water vapor
Volcanic aerosols
Wave-cut cliff
Wave-cut barrier beach
Wave-cut tombolo
Offshore, wave-cut, breakwater bar
A headland is eroded and the sand is deposited in an offshore basin.
Wave erosion cuts away both sides of a long sand bar, leaving a sand ridge aligned parallel to the shore.
Sand is deposited from longshore currents.
Sand eroded from a wave-cut diff is deposited around sea stacks and arches.
One where bedrock is vigorously eroded as sea level rises
One where a bedrock, wave-cut cliff is rapidly retreating inland as sea level falls
One where unconsolidated sediments are being eroded as sea level falls
One where unconsolidated sediments are being rapidly eroded as sea level rises
The rate of glacial rebound exceeds the rate of sea level rise
The tectonic subsidence rate exceeds the rate of sea level rise
The rate of glacial rebound is less than the rate of sea level rise
The rate of tectonic uplift exceeds the rate of sea level fall
Submergent
Retreating
Stable
Emergent
Drift
Flood
Ebb
Rip
Rip tides
Spring tides
Surf tides
Neap tides
The lunar force is about twice that of the Sun.
The solar and lunar gravitational forces are about the same magnitude.
The solar force is about twice that of the Moon.
The gravitational forces of each vary depending upon seasons on Earth.
Coastal erosion and loss of delta lands will continue as sea level continues to rise.
Artificial levees help spread river-borne sediment uniformly over the delta swamps and wetlands.
The sediment supply has dropped since large reservoirs were constructed on the Missouri and Arkansas Rivers.
The thick sediment pile is slowly compacting and the delta is slowly subsiding.
Cyclonic mound
Storm surge
Eyewall ridge
Sea dome
Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but the most powerful storm waves
Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreat from the coastline
Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment
Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but the most powerful storm waves
Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreat from the coastline
Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment
Promote coastal development; build massive, hardened structures to stop all but the most powerful storm waves
Prohibits coastal development; build nothing, declare victory over the sea and retreat from the coastline
Allow coastal development; make a long-term commitment to beach nourishment
Fetch
Velocity or speed
Wavelength
Period
Reflected
Longshore
Translational
Ebb tide
Only when the wave period is greater than one-half the water depth
Only when the wavelength is about twice the water depth
Only when the wavelength is about one-half the water depth
Only when the wave period is greater than twice the water depth
Reflection
Relaxing
Refluxing
Refraction
Elevated, wave-cut terraces
Many small bedrock islands
Extensive barrier islands
Numerous large estuaries
Breakwater
Sand spit
Sea arch
Barrier island
Swash and slosh
Backwash and swash
Slash and slosh
Wash and backslosh
Sea stack
Sea span
Sea rampart
Sea spit
Barrier island
Spit
Jetty
Sand arch
A sand deposit on the seaward side of a tidal inlet to a large estuary
A sand bar extending across the former inlet to a bay or estuary
A sand barrier extending partway across the entrance to a bay or estuary
A sand deposit on the estuary side of an inlet through a barrier island
Wave-cut barrier dune
Wave-cut barrier stack
Wave-cut arch
Wave-cut cliff
Increased, longshore current velocities between the breakwater and the beach
Dissipation of storm wave energy on the seaward side of the breakwater
Increased sand deposition between the beach and the breakwater
Increased erosion of the beach on one side of the breakwater
Sand groin
Spit
Jetty barrier
Tombolo
Speeds decrease as waves enter shallow water.
Ebb tidal currents carry large quantities of sand from estuaries to the seacoast side of a barrier island system.
Deposition is concentrated in bays and protected waters.
Erosional energy is focused on headland areas along the beach.
Building and extension of spits are
Closing off of small estuaries by baymouth bars is
Transport of sand along the beach is
Cracking and abrasion of rock at the base of a wave-cut cliff are
Forward
Spring
Flood
Ebb
Breakwaters
Seawalls
Jetties
Groins
It has dropped since 900 A.D., but will probably rise for the next few hundred years.
It dropped during the past few centuries and that trend will continue.
It rose over past centuries but will probably drop in the next hundred years.
It rose for the past few centuries and will continue to rise.
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