The most effective way to establish design lines that are proportionate is with: |
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reference points
Reference points,
which mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the
hair changes, ensure a balanced design. |
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The reference point that is the highest point on top of the head is the: |
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apex
The apex is located by placing a comb flat on top of the head; the comb will rest on that highest point. |
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The widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown, is the: |
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parietal ridge
The parietal ridge
is found by placing a comb flat against the side of the head. Where the
head starts to curve away from the comb is the parietal ridge. |
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Placing a comb flat against the nape area and observing where the comb leaves the head is one way to find the: |
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occipital bone
The occipital bone can be found simply by feeling the base of the skull. |
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The widest points in the ________ are the two front corners. |
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fringe (bangs) area
Cutting past the two front corners can cause the fringe to end up on the sides of the haircut once it is dry. |
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Between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge is an area of the head called the: |
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crown
It is very important to pay attention to this area when performing any haircutting service. |
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When combed into its natural falling position, the fringe or bangs area falls no farther than: |
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the outer corners of the eyes
The fringe area is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners. |
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The top of the head can be found by parting the hair: |
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at the parietal ridge
The top of the head is where the hair lies on the head form. |
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Straight lines that are level and direct the eye from one side to the other are: |
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horizontal lines
Horizontal lines are usually used to create one-length and low-elevation haircuts. |
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Diagonal lines are used in a technique in which the ends of the hair are cut at a slight taper, called: |
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beveling
Beveling creates fullness in a haircut by cutting the ends of the hair at a taper. |
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For control during haircutting, the hair is parted into uniform working areas called: |
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sections
The hair is parted into sections at the start of the haircut. |
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When cutting, the subsection of hair is held from the head at an angle or degree called: |
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elevation
Elevation is an action that occurs when you lift a subsection of hair above zero degrees. |
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Elevating the hair below 90 degrees when cutting has the effect of: |
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building weight
The less you elevate the hair, the more weight you build. |
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As a general rule, as you elevate the hair more, you create: |
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more graduation
The most commonly used elevations are 45 and 90 degrees. The more you elevate, the more graduation you create. |
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The length the hair will be cut is determined by a section of hair called the: |
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guideline
The guideline is usually the first section you cut when creating a shape. |
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The guideline that does not move and is used mostly in blunt haircuts is the: |
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stationary guideline
All other sections are combed to the stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length. |
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A guideline that moves as the haircut progresses is called a: |
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traveling guideline
When you use a
traveling guide, you take a small slice of the previous subsection and
move it to the next position, or subsection, where it becomes the new
guideline. |
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The cutting line, which creates the end-result shape, is the angle at which the: |
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fingers are held during cutting
The cutting line is ultimately the line that is cut. |
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When the hair is
combed away from its natural falling position toward a guideline,
rather than straight out from the head, that is called: |
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overdirection
Overdirection is used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts and where you want to create a length increase in the design. |
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To create a length or weight increase in a haircut, you can use overdirection and a: |
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stationary guideline
With overdirection all the sections are combed to the stationary guideline to create an increase in length or weight. |
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By using a traveling guide and no overdirection to cut the same lengths throughout a haircut, you are creating: |
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uniform layers
This is the basic procedure for creating uniform layers. |
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When straight hair dries, it shrinks: |
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1/4 to 1/2 inch
All hair shrinks when it dries; curly hair shrinks even more than straight hair. |
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Curly hair shrinks as it dries even more than straight hair does, by about: |
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1/2 inch to two inches
You need to cut the hair longer than the desired length to make up for this shrinkage. |
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The hair grows from the scalp in a particular direction known as a: |
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growth pattern
Growth patterns include cowlicks, whorls, and other patterns. |
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The client consultation before a haircut should always include analyzing the: |
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face shape
A great haircut must not only be technically sound but also suit the client's face. |
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The behavior of the hair is determined by density, texture, wave patterns,: |
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hairlines and growth patterns
All these characteristics must be considered in a hair analysis during the client consultation. |
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Hair texture, classified as coarse, medium, or fine, is based on the: |
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diameter of each hair strand
The diameter of the hair strands contributes to the general quality and feel of the hair. |
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Wave pattern, or the amount of ________ in the hair strand, varies within the same head of hair. |
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movement
Wave pattern is described as straight, wavy, curly, and extremely curly. |
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Blunt or straight lines are cut in the hair with: |
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haircutting shears
Haircutting shears are a basic tool used in blunt cuts as well as in some texturizing techniques. |
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To create a softer effect on the ends of the hair, use: |
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a straight razor
Razors are also used to thin hair out or texturize in certain areas. |
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For close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears-over-comb technique, use the: |
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barber comb
The narrow end of the comb allows the shears to get very close to the head. |
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Removing bulk from the hair is done mostly with: |
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thinning shears
Thinning shears are also called texturizing shears, tapering shears, or notching shears. |
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Generally, most of the work in haircutting is done by the: |
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cutting hand
The cutting hand holds the shears and parts, combs, and cuts the hair. |
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The part of the shears in which the ring finger is placed is the: |
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finger grip of still blade
The ring finger goes into the finger grip of the still, or unmoving, blade. |
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The most efficient way to handle both comb and shears while combing the hair is to: |
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palm the shears
It is best to hold both tools during the entire haircutting process, and to palm the shears while combing or parting the hair. |
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The proper position for the little finger, when holding the razor with the handle higher than the shank, is in the: |
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tang
The little finger is positioned in the tang, underneath the handle. |
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During the haircutting procedure, the fine teeth of the styling comb are used to: |
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comb the subsection before cutting
The fine teeth provide more tension for cutting than the wider teeth. |
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The amount of pressure created by stretching or pulling a subsection is called: |
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tension
Consistent tension is important for consistent, even results in a haircut. |
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When precise lines are desired in a haircut on straight hair, use: |
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maximum tension
Maximum tension can be used on straight hair to create sharp, precise lines. |
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The hand position used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers is: |
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cutting over the fingers
These haircuts call for cutting over the fingers or on top of the knuckles. |
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The best way to maintain control of the subsection when cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line is by: |
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cutting palm to palm
Cutting this way is the best way to control the subsection, especially with regard to elevation and overdirection. |
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Cut hair on the floor should be swept up and disposed of: |
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before blow-drying the client
Sweeping up the cut hair is both sanitary and safer for you and the client. |
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You should replace the blade in your razor: |
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prior to each new client
Replacing the blade and discarding used blades in a puncture-proof container is good sanitation practice. |
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Another term for blunt haircut is: |
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zero-elevation cut
The blunt cut is cut with no elevation or overdirection. |
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The most common elevation used to cut a graduated haircut is: |
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45 degrees
Graduated haircuts are cut with low to medium elevation, most commonly 45 degrees. |
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When cutting a long layered haircut, the hair is held at a: |
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180-degree angle
This technique gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts. |
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Layers create movement and volume in the hair, and the ends appear: |
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farther apart
Layered cuts generally have less weight than graduated cuts, in which the ends appear closer together. |
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If you do not maintain an even amount of moisture in the hair as you cut, you can expect: |
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uneven results
Dry hair responds to cutting differently than wet hair, so the finished haircut may be uneven. |
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Parting the hair opposite to the way in which you cut it to check the lengths is known as: |
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cross-checking
For example, if you use vertical partings to cut, you should use horizontal partings to cross-check. |
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In a haircut using vertical partings, cross-checking should be done with: |
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horizontal partings
Cross-checking is parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it in order to check the lengths. |
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A blunt haircut that is cut with the client's head tilted forward will have: |
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slight graduation of the line
If the head is tilted forward, the hair does not fall in its natural falling position, and some graduation results. |
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A variation of the basic blunt cut is the classic A-line bob, which is cut with a: |
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diagonal cutting line
A diagonal cutting line, or finger angle, is used to create the lines of this cut. |
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When cutting the soft, rounded shape of a uniform-layered cut, all the hair is: |
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cut at the same length
The hair lengths are uniform, meaning they are elevated to 90 degrees and cut to the same length. |
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Curly hair is different from straight hair in that it: |
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shrinks more after it dries
For every 1/4 inch you cut when curly hair is wet, it will shrink up to 1 inch when dry. |
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A tool that should be avoided when cutting curly hair is: |
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a razor
Cutting curly hair with a razor can weaken the cuticle and cause the hair to frizz. |
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The fringe area is the hair that lies approximately between the: |
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outer corners of the eyes
The fringe area, or bangs, is the hair that lies between the two front corners of the head or the outer corners of the eyes. |
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When you work with a razor, the ends are cut: |
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at an angle
Cutting at an angle produces softer shapes with more visible separation, or a "feathered" effect, on the ends. |
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Razor cutting is different from shears cutting in that: |
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the guide is above the fingers
This is the main difference between cutting with a razor and with shears. |
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When working with a razor, remember not to use it on: |
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dry hair
Cutting dry hair with a razor can make the hair frizz and can be painful for the client. |
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The method of
cutting hair in which the shears are not opened and closed but kept
partially open as they glide along the edge of the section is: |
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slide cutting
Slide cutting is a good way to layer very long hair and keep weight at the perimeter. |
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The texturizing technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out with the tips of the shears is: |
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free-hand notching
This technique is generally used throughout the interior of the section rather than at the ends. |
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A barbering technique in which the hair is not held between the fingers is: |
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shears-over-comb
In this technique, you hold the hair in place with the comb while you use the tips of the shears to remove the lengths. |
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When performing the technique called shears-over-comb, you hold the comb: |
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at an angle to the head
The comb is placed teeth first into the hairline, then turned so that the teeth are angled away from the head. |
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When cutting shears-over-comb, it is important to work with areas: |
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no wider than the blade
Always work with small areas at a time. |
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When using the shears-over-comb technique, it is crucial that: |
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one blade stays still
One blade remains still, parallel to the spine of the comb, while the other blade moves. |
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A commonly used technique that removes bulk without shortening the length is called: |
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texturizing
Texturizing can be used to add volume, remove volume, make hair "move," and blend one area into another. |
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A technique in which the razor makes small circular motions is called: |
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razor rotation
Razor rotation is similar to razor-over-comb except that you make small circular motions. |
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Because many clients are afraid of the word "thinning," it is better to use another term for it, such as: |
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removing weight
The terms "removing bulk" or "removing weight" are a more modern choice of words for "thinning." |
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When clipper cutting, if you want to cut all the hair to one exact length, you can use a/an: |
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length guard attachment
Length guards are
attached to the clippers and can be used to cut one length or in
different combinations to create different lengths. |
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The best tool for creating a flat-top or square shape is: |
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clippers
The clipper-over-comb technique allows you to cut the hair very close to the scalp and create a flat-top or square shape. |
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The clipper-over comb technique differs from shears-over-comb in that the clippers move: |
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sideways across the comb
The comb stays in position as you move the clippers across it. |
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An important point to remember when cutting with clippers, especially in the nape, is to always work: |
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against the natural growth patterns
Working against the growth patterns ensures that you are lifting the hair away from the head and cutting evenly. |
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For cleaning necklines and around the ears, you may use smaller-sized clippers called: |
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edgers
Edgers or trimmers are small enough to use for closer, more precise work on these areas. |
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When clipper-cutting the hair very short and close to the head, the comb most often used is the: |
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barber comb
The classic
barbering comb is often used in the nape and sides and around the ears,
and allows you to cut the hair close to the head. |
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A factor to consider when trimming facial hair is that it is very: |
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coarse
Facial hair is very coarse and may dull haircutting shears. |
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