Here they are; the rest of the questions about brakes!
Changing the pads to a different composition
Applying anti-seize compound to the backing plate
Flushing out the old brake fluid
Hit the drum with a ball peen hammer to loosen the piston
Air in the hydraulic lines
Internal leak in the master cylinder
Caliper pistons not retracting
Proportioning valve failure
Warped rotor & unretracted caliper piston
Leak in master cylinder & crimped flex hose
Brake shoes out of adjustment & air in the hydraulic lines
Metering valve failure & old brake fluid
Over heating due to hard driving & braking
Excessively worn disc rotor
Insufficient torque on wheel nuts
Using an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts
To avoid putting uneven pressure on the wheel assembly
To ensure all the nuts are torqued evenly
To press the anti-seize compound towards the centre of the wheel
You should never use a cross or star pattern be used when torquing on a wheel
People’s lives depend on the quality of your work
The working life of a brake system can be greatly affected by poor work
Both of the above
Brake systems are made to be foolproof; care and precision doesn’t matter
Cut it off because you replace the flex hose with every repair
Hang the caliper from the car frame using welding rod or bungee cord
The flex hose doesn’t go to the caliper, and shouldn’t be a problem
The flex hose is long enough to rest the caliper on the floor
If there is enough material to successfully machine the disc
If a replacement disc would be too expensive
If new discs will take too long to be shipped to you
Any of the above
Easily slide the caliper in and out
Feel the pressure in the flex hose
Activate the brakes through the metering valve
Use engine oil to lubricate all the bushings and pins
Never; as long as the reservoir is topped up, there will be no problem
Every year; it keeps the fluid from smelling funny
Every 2 years; it removes moisture and debris
Every 3 years; it removes moisture and debris
Wait!
Here's an interesting quiz for you.