Waves and Water Dynamics

30 cards

waaaves


 
  
Created Nov 16, 2011
by
colleen2212

 

 
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1
disturbing force
 
- the energy that causes ocean waves to form- wind blowing across ocean surface- movement of...
2
ocean waves
 
- along an air-water interface, the movement of air across the ocean surface creates ocean...
3
internal waves
 
- water-water interface- movement of water of different densities- can be much larger than...
4
pycnocline
 
- a layer of rapidly changing density- associated with internal waves
5
seismic sea waves/tsunami
 
- caused by sea floor movement: - turbidity currents- volcanic eruptions- fault slippage
6
progressive waves
 
- waves that oscillate uniformly and progress or travel without breaking   - longitudinal,...
7
longitudinal waves
 
- push-pull in the same direction that the energy is traveling- shape of the wave (waveform)...
8
transverse waves
 
- energy travels at right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles- transmit energy...
9
orbital waves
 
- interface waves- involves components of both longitudinal and transverse waves- move in circular...
10
still water level
 
- halfway between the crests and troughs- zero energy level- level of the water if there were...
11
wave breaks
 
- the wave is too steep to support itself- anytime the 1:7 ratio is exceeded (along shoreline...
12
frequency
 
- the number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time- inverse of the period
13
circular orbital motion
 
- as a wave travels, the water passes the energy along by moving in a circle- wave itself doesn't...
14
wave base
 
- equal to one half the wavelength (L/2) measured from still water level- circular orbits become...
15
deep-water waves
 
- water depth (d) is greater than the wave base (L/2)- have no interference with the ocean...
16
Celerity (C)
 
- wave speed - wavelength (L)/period (T)- the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave...
17
shallow-water waves
 
- depth (d) is less than 1/20 of the wavelength (L/20)- long waves- ocean floor interferes...
18
transitional waves
 
- intermediate waves- characteristics of shallow and deep water waves- wave speed depends partially...
19
capillary waves
 
- small, rounded waves with V-shaped troughs- wavelengths less than 1.74 cms- capilarity is...
20
gravity waves
 
- symmetric waves- wavelength exceeding 1.74 cms- gravity is dominant restoring force- wave...
21
sea area ("sea")
 
- area where wind-driven waves are generated
22
factors that determine the amount of energy in waves
 
1) wind speed2) duration - length of time during which the wind blows in one direction3) the...
23
fully developed sea
 
- equilibrium condition- waves can grow no further because they lose as much energy breaking...
24
swells
 
- uniform, symmetrical waves that have traveled out of the area where they originated- move...
25
shoaling water
 
shallow water
26
physical changes as deep-water waves of a swell move toward continental margins
 
- wave speed decreases- decrease in wavelength- wave height increases- increase in wave steepness...
27
wave refraction
 
- as a wave approaches shore at a slight angle to the shore, some segment of the wave will...
28
orthogonal lines
 
- wave rays- are drawn perpendicular to wave fronts and are spaced so energy between lines...
29
wave diffraction
 
- results from wave energy being transferred around or behind barriers that impede the wave's...
30
standing waves
 
- produced when waves are reflected at right angles to a barrier- the sum of two waves with...

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