Waves and Water Dynamics

- the energy that causes ocean waves to form- wind blowing across ocean surface- movement of fluids with different densities (waves travel along the interface between the two)

- along an air-water interface, the movement of air across the ocean surface creates ocean waves

- water-water interface- movement of water of different densities- can be much larger than surface waves, but aren't as energetic- created by: tidal movement, turbidity currents, wind stress, passing ships

- a layer of rapidly changing density- associated with internal waves

- caused by sea floor movement: - turbidity currents- volcanic eruptions- fault slippage

- waves that oscillate uniformly and progress or travel without breaking - longitudinal, transverse, orbital

- push-pull in the same direction that the energy is traveling- shape of the wave (waveform) moves through the medium by compressing and decompressing- energy can be transmitted through all states of matter

- energy travels at right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles- transmit energy only through solids

- interface waves- involves components of both longitudinal and transverse waves- move in circular orbits

- halfway between the crests and troughs- zero energy level- level of the water if there were no waves

- the wave is too steep to support itself- anytime the 1:7 ratio is exceeded (along shoreline or out at sea)- Ex:wave 7m long can only be 1m high

- the number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time- inverse of the period

- as a wave travels, the water passes the energy along by moving in a circle- wave itself doesn't travel the entire distance, but the waveform does

- equal to one half the wavelength (L/2) measured from still water level- circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible

- water depth (d) is greater than the wave base (L/2)- have no interference with the ocean bottom