Waves And Water Dynamics

Waaaves
Created Nov 16, 2011
by colleen2212
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disturbing force
- the energy that causes ocean waves to form- wind blowing across ocean surface- movement of...
ocean waves
- along an air-water interface, the movement of air across the ocean surface creates ocean...
internal waves
- water-water interface- movement of water of different densities- can be much larger than...
pycnocline
- a layer of rapidly changing density- associated with internal waves
seismic sea waves/tsunami
- caused by sea floor movement: - turbidity currents- volcanic eruptions- fault slippage
progressive waves
- waves that oscillate uniformly and progress or travel without breaking   - longitudinal,...
longitudinal waves
- push-pull in the same direction that the energy is traveling- shape of the wave (waveform)...
transverse waves
- energy travels at right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles- transmit energy...
orbital waves
- interface waves- involves components of both longitudinal and transverse waves- move in circular...
still water level
- halfway between the crests and troughs- zero energy level- level of the water if there were...
wave breaks
- the wave is too steep to support itself- anytime the 1:7 ratio is exceeded (along shoreline...
frequency
- the number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time- inverse of the period
circular orbital motion
- as a wave travels, the water passes the energy along by moving in a circle- wave itself doesn't...
wave base
- equal to one half the wavelength (L/2) measured from still water level- circular orbits become...
deep-water waves
- water depth (d) is greater than the wave base (L/2)- have no interference with the ocean...
Celerity (C)
- wave speed - wavelength (L)/period (T)- the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave...
shallow-water waves
- depth (d) is less than 1/20 of the wavelength (L/20)- long waves- ocean floor interferes...
transitional waves
- intermediate waves- characteristics of shallow and deep water waves- wave speed depends partially...
capillary waves
- small, rounded waves with V-shaped troughs- wavelengths less than 1.74 cms- capilarity is...
gravity waves
- symmetric waves- wavelength exceeding 1.74 cms- gravity is dominant restoring force- wave...
sea area ("sea")
- area where wind-driven waves are generated
factors that determine the amount of energy in waves
1) wind speed2) duration - length of time during which the wind blows in one direction3) the...
fully developed sea
- equilibrium condition- waves can grow no further because they lose as much energy breaking...
swells
- uniform, symmetrical waves that have traveled out of the area where they originated- move...
shoaling water
shallow water
physical changes as deep-water waves of a swell move toward continental margins
- wave speed decreases- decrease in wavelength- wave height increases- increase in wave steepness...
wave refraction
- as a wave approaches shore at a slight angle to the shore, some segment of the wave will...
orthogonal lines
- wave rays- are drawn perpendicular to wave fronts and are spaced so energy between lines...
wave diffraction
- results from wave energy being transferred around or behind barriers that impede the wave's...
standing waves
- produced when waves are reflected at right angles to a barrier- the sum of two waves with...

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